Day 4: Torres del Rio to Nájera

32.4 miles, 2,900′ of gain

Mind

The Albergue’s (hostels) run on their own clocks. For the first two nights, I look back now and got lucky that I was in rooms with late risers as I was still getting over my jet lag. Today I was with a group of early risers, up at 6am. My bunk-mate rolled around at night a lot … and I did too. So early morning, but I was on the road by 7. It was an amazing morning – cool – with the sun gently rising above the clouds. Thank you early risers!

Things were going well, running, doing what I need to in Navarrete (ATM, bakery, groceries, church). Then I stopped for lunch around mile 22 and assessed my foot…

It started to downpour right as I arrived in Nájera. It took me until the third hostel to find a free bed. A first on this trip.

Body

The first 12 miles were easy, fun, and glorious. Trails were undulating and I ran (past) a bunch of people I met last night and had brief conversations. I entered the La Rioja wine region, with vineyards everywhere and red clay soil.

The next 9 miles were smooth, mainly running out of Logroño, a big city. Lots of people walking and running on the outskirts of the city because there were paths, parks, and a lake. It felt more like running around Lake Merritt in Oakland. The top of my right foot was a little sore, but I ignored it until Navarrete, where I was going to have lunch.

I took off my shoes and socks for lunch (which is becoming my custom) and the large tendon on the top of my foot that runs up my leg was sore. Really sore. Painful to move it up and down and do ankle rolls sore. How did I not realize it was so inflamed? Was I not paying close enough attention? After running some errands for 20 minutes, did it go from something I ‘noticed’ to hardly able to move? How did this happen? How could I let it get this bad? What an idiot. Ugg. Probably what happened is that I tied my shoe slightly too tight to pull my heal back and toes with blisters away from the front of my shoes. It didn’t feel tight all day.

I had lunch in hopes of it feeling better. It did a little. I inlaced the top two laces and started walking. Manageable. I even tried running after 20 minutes. Nope. So I walked the last 10 miles. Time moved slowly.

Spirit

Let’s start with the end. I was in a funk. Was I done? If I just hadn’t tied my shoelace so tight. Should I stop right now or keep going? Things were going perfect today. What an idiot. Is this God’s doing? Am I getting put in my place? What should I do? As an alternative, I tried to focus on the Camino, on the beauty around me, and on prayer. It sort of worked. Wait, I’m walking, albeit faster than most people. I can talk to people! I met a couple from the Rockridge/Berkeley area and a couple from Italy. The husband works at the US Air Force base near his house. My Hoka’s started a conversation. We talked a while. He was having Achilles’ tendon issues and told me I should get ‘Radio salil’, a cream they only sell in Spain. He said it’s the only way he’s been able to do the Camino. So I got it and within 5 minutes I could move my ankle more. Wow! Thank you God (via the Italian guy who’s name I forgot). A bar gave me ice (thank you Google Translate to explain what I needed and why). So we’ll see what is in store for me tomorrow.

Before the foot issue, I had really started to find my groove of praying while running. It’s starting to feel natural and meditative.

Of course there are amazing churches.

Spent a lot of time thinking about three of my grandparents after randomly stopping to read this.

This is the second fence between the Camino and a highway that I’ve seen this. I added my own cross here. It’s a reminder of the difference between the pilgrim’s way and our modern way.

What goes through my head while walking with a hurt foot: There are so many phases that people use that I still don’t fully understand. ‘God will provide.’ Does that mean I don’t have to do anything? Or that he provides me the skills to provide for myself? Or something else? ‘God won’t give you more than you can handle.’ So what’s wrong with me if I feel like I can’t handle it? In the moment, a saying like this seems to do only induce anger, but mostly seems true after. ‘It’s Gods will.’ How do you tell the difference between God’s will and things that are my fault? Is anything random or is it all God’s will? Is the trick to be good at responding to what happens to you? How much ‘free will’ did I have to prevent ‘God’s will’?

I always seem to have more questions than answers.

Postscript: some of the above might have been hunger talking. After a big dinner and dessert, a lot of the above seems like whining and not accepting what has happened. I left it unedited because I’m a flawed human that is still trying to figure things out.

I tried to go to mass tonight, but the 8pm pilgrim’s mass posted on the church door I guess didn’t apply tonight.